Sarwat and her parents met me at the airport on Wednesday Nov. 28. After meeting the rest of the family;older sister Zeenat (20)brother Ahmed (14)youngest sister Nuzhat (11)and a whole group of little children who come to be tutored at their house every afternoon,and after a brief rest,we started getting ready to go to a "3 days traditional wedding ceremony" Weddings here begin at 10 pm and last till 2 am. Wednesday was the first day. To get ready mother and three daughters and me covered our faces with stuff (herbal mask)so we would all look beautiful.
I was dressed in one of Sarwat's Pakistani dress and at 10pm all went down stairs to catch a small wagon with 30 plus relatives all squeased in,mostly women and children. We entered a huge tent with many round tables set for 10. The tent was divided for men and women/children.
It was beautifully decorated with lights and flowers. But what caught my eyes were the stunningly beautiful clothing and jewelry worn by the ladies and girls. The most beautiful were the bride and her ladies in waiting who escorted her in and sat with her throughout the evening.
The first night is called Mehndi to celebrate the painting"mehndi"of the hands and foot. The sisters of the groom and friends did several different dances. Some dances with sticks which is traditional.
Dinner was served toward the end of the night about 1 am.
The second night was Nikkah. The bride is escorted wearing a very special heavily beaded dress and jewelry. She sat all evening with her eyes lowered which is traditional. It must have taken hours for preparation. The bride entered the hall first then departed.
Before the groom enters the main hall a maulana,a Muslim Holy Man,prayed with the groom on the men's side. I was not able to witness this because I was on the women's side.
Then the groom was escorted by many men into the main hall. On this night only drinks and sweets were served. After this night groom and bride go to their new home.
At the end of the ceremony as the groom and bride leave the parents,relatives,and friends of the bride cry.
The third night the bride and groom go around the room greeting all the people present.
This night is called "Valima". This night an extra festive dinner is served which is paid for by the groom's father. The cost of the first two nights is shared by the bride and groom's families.
Like American weddings those who attended the wedding gave gifts either in the form of money or presents.
The weddings end each night about 2am the next morning so next day people sleep until noon except those who have to go to school or work.
This wedding started on Wednesday night and ended 2am next morning,Thursday. Because in Muslim countries Friday is a rest day for prayer Sarwat wanted us to visit her college and former school this Thursday. Fortunately the 2nd and 3rd day of the wedding started on Friday and Saturday nights.
Everyone slept until noon on Sunday except Ahmed who had a computer class and had to leave the house Sunday morning.
Sunday afternoon the whole family except Mr. Murtaza packed into a mini-Suzuki provided by the son of Mr. Murtaza's oldest brother and we went touring Karachi. We first went to the tomb of Pakistan's founder,Jinnah. I was told that this memorable grounds was financially supported by China. It is located in the heart of Karachi. It is covers many acres and landscaped with pools and waterfalls. The next stop was at a very large city park. I asked why we were going in the dark and was told that people went in the mornings and evenings. It then made sense. The mornings and evenings are the coolest times of the day. This was a very well manicured park with jogging track, a roller skating rink,well equipped playground for children(only 10yr and younger allowed)and a little restaurant where freshly squeezed juice,tea,ice cream,snacks could be bought. We all enjoyed Pakistani ice cream except Ahmed who preferred tea.
Most of the time conversation is held in Sindhi or Urdu,but I heard McDonald spoken. I offered to treat them to McDonalds and immediately a happy cheer went up. So later we gathered in a fairly large McDonalds. Being Sunday there were many many people. Although I suggested each choose, Sarwat and Ahmed decided it would be easier to order if they ordered the same thing for all 7. The Value meal cost 190 rupees each. The dollar is equal to 60 rupees.
I could tell this was a real treat for all. There is also a Kentucky Fried Chicken. Sarwat was never able to eat at McDonalds or Kentucky fried Chicken on Kauai because the meat and chicken were not halal.
Besides doing all these things there were many things I learned living in a Muslim home. I learned to sit on the floor to eat meals and use my fingers. Also to wear a scarf on my head and say "Bismilallah"which means before we eat we say thankyou to God.
I learned that Muslim families are very close. This family expresses themselves very freely between and among parents and children. At meals there is lots of exchange and laughter.
Mr.Murtaza has a great sense of humor and parents and children express lots of love for each other. Both Mr. & Mrs Murtaza come from very large families. On Mrs. side 3 sisters and 6 brothers;on Mr. side 4 sisters and 5 brothers.
In this apartment building there are three family members and their families living on different floors. When we went to the wedding ceremonies more than 25 relatives piled up in the vehicle.
Families are large and close.
Until next time, Aloha. Joanne
Friday, November 30, 2007
Monday, November 26, 2007
Leaving Kenya after 6 weeks. To Karachi,Pakistan
I leave Nairobi tonight for Karachi, Pakistan where Sarwat promises to meet me at the airport tomorrow about 10am. My flight takes me to Dubai first where I have a 5 hour stopover.
Esther, a room mate at the Nairobi Youth Hostel,worked in Dubai for the last 2 years and shared a great deal about what Dubai is like. It is one of the fastest growing and riches places in the world.
The residence are extremely rich because no one can gain citizenship and anyone doing business there have to give a huge percentage of their profits to the citizens. Dubai is owned by Arabs. She is planning to join her husband who found a job in Qatar. She is Kenyan and he is Nigerian.
In Africa being of different African country or tribe in Kenyan has great significants; much more than the U.S. South,North,East, or West.
I also got lots of history about Rwanda from Peter who is a Rwandan. About the Ttutsi and Hutus and what has happened since the genicide.
I will probably see very little of Dubai.
Including the mainland U.S. Kenya is the ninth country of my round the world trip. I 've enjoyed every country visited and feel that God has given me some very unique experiences.
Lillian's aunty Josephine who we visited last weekend was very instrumental in creating a place for children who lost both parents and had no place to go. Many left abandoned. She helped obtain 23 acreas. It is walking distance from her home so we walked over to see the place called Jubilee. I was amazed that in 5 years they have accommodations for 123 children ages 3 -13 years and also a school for their education. Recently they had a group of doctors from the U.S. come to give the children medical and dental check ups. We saw workmen working on a medical clinic,a secondary school and eventually they plan to build a college on the grounds. A visitor center is half way built so volunteer groups can stay on the property while helping with the projects. Much of the grounds are planted with food crops like corn, potatoes,greens,tomatoes,etc.
Being a Sunday the children were not in school,but they were assembled to sing for us and inturn I taught them a short version of the hula "Hukilau" It was enjoyable visiting and hearing stories of individual children and how they came to be at this place.
Aunty Josephine has three teenage girls who lost their parents living at her home. One of the girls came to her seeking a job. When she saw how little she was asked her if she would like to be in school and put her in school and gave her a home.
One morning when we were in the kitchen with dirt floor and open fire with a huge pot of milk used to make tea at Lillian's folks place in the country and talking story with her moms and aunties....aunties on her father's side are called "moms"whoes role is to teach and instruct and aunties on the mom's side are called "aunties" whoes roles are to just be gentle and helpful so when you get into trouble you ran to them and they will help you make things right with your parents. Anyway going back to the kitchen,the "mom" Lillian is named after said to me in Kikuyu,which ofcourse had be translated to me, that I should plan to stay for a week so she can teach me many things like how they make tea as well as how they are able to lift pots off the fire with their bare hands. They cover their hands with soot. And by the end of the week I will be black just like them. We laughed and laughed. Later I joinned a whole bunch of ladies peeling potatoes and carrots. When work was done ten year David,Mary's son,and I danced the "Hukilau" and when I asked the ladies to sing and dance for me. They did several "rock & roll" native African numbers and I joinned them in dancing. We had a "rocking,swaying,fun"time.
Earlier I had attended a Sunday service with Mary near her home and they really can sing. No just standing still when you sing. They really move!!!
Something I would never want to do here is drive. And I can't go out without one of Mary's boys.
They have no rules here. The drivers or the pedestrians just do what they want. It is a mystery that more people don't get killed. Most of the cars and matatus and buses have dents on them.
In 6 weeks I have been able to see many sections of Kenya and have seen and heard much of the political scene. As much as I've enjoyed,seen,and learned about Kenya what keeps coming back to me is how lucky I am to live in Kauai and the United States of America. My appreciation of being an American citizen has increased tremendously. We are indeed greatly blessed to be American citizens.
Aloha, Joanne
Esther, a room mate at the Nairobi Youth Hostel,worked in Dubai for the last 2 years and shared a great deal about what Dubai is like. It is one of the fastest growing and riches places in the world.
The residence are extremely rich because no one can gain citizenship and anyone doing business there have to give a huge percentage of their profits to the citizens. Dubai is owned by Arabs. She is planning to join her husband who found a job in Qatar. She is Kenyan and he is Nigerian.
In Africa being of different African country or tribe in Kenyan has great significants; much more than the U.S. South,North,East, or West.
I also got lots of history about Rwanda from Peter who is a Rwandan. About the Ttutsi and Hutus and what has happened since the genicide.
I will probably see very little of Dubai.
Including the mainland U.S. Kenya is the ninth country of my round the world trip. I 've enjoyed every country visited and feel that God has given me some very unique experiences.
Lillian's aunty Josephine who we visited last weekend was very instrumental in creating a place for children who lost both parents and had no place to go. Many left abandoned. She helped obtain 23 acreas. It is walking distance from her home so we walked over to see the place called Jubilee. I was amazed that in 5 years they have accommodations for 123 children ages 3 -13 years and also a school for their education. Recently they had a group of doctors from the U.S. come to give the children medical and dental check ups. We saw workmen working on a medical clinic,a secondary school and eventually they plan to build a college on the grounds. A visitor center is half way built so volunteer groups can stay on the property while helping with the projects. Much of the grounds are planted with food crops like corn, potatoes,greens,tomatoes,etc.
Being a Sunday the children were not in school,but they were assembled to sing for us and inturn I taught them a short version of the hula "Hukilau" It was enjoyable visiting and hearing stories of individual children and how they came to be at this place.
Aunty Josephine has three teenage girls who lost their parents living at her home. One of the girls came to her seeking a job. When she saw how little she was asked her if she would like to be in school and put her in school and gave her a home.
One morning when we were in the kitchen with dirt floor and open fire with a huge pot of milk used to make tea at Lillian's folks place in the country and talking story with her moms and aunties....aunties on her father's side are called "moms"whoes role is to teach and instruct and aunties on the mom's side are called "aunties" whoes roles are to just be gentle and helpful so when you get into trouble you ran to them and they will help you make things right with your parents. Anyway going back to the kitchen,the "mom" Lillian is named after said to me in Kikuyu,which ofcourse had be translated to me, that I should plan to stay for a week so she can teach me many things like how they make tea as well as how they are able to lift pots off the fire with their bare hands. They cover their hands with soot. And by the end of the week I will be black just like them. We laughed and laughed. Later I joinned a whole bunch of ladies peeling potatoes and carrots. When work was done ten year David,Mary's son,and I danced the "Hukilau" and when I asked the ladies to sing and dance for me. They did several "rock & roll" native African numbers and I joinned them in dancing. We had a "rocking,swaying,fun"time.
Earlier I had attended a Sunday service with Mary near her home and they really can sing. No just standing still when you sing. They really move!!!
Something I would never want to do here is drive. And I can't go out without one of Mary's boys.
They have no rules here. The drivers or the pedestrians just do what they want. It is a mystery that more people don't get killed. Most of the cars and matatus and buses have dents on them.
In 6 weeks I have been able to see many sections of Kenya and have seen and heard much of the political scene. As much as I've enjoyed,seen,and learned about Kenya what keeps coming back to me is how lucky I am to live in Kauai and the United States of America. My appreciation of being an American citizen has increased tremendously. We are indeed greatly blessed to be American citizens.
Aloha, Joanne
Thursday, November 22, 2007
Weekend at Lillians parents - Up Country
Finally the long awaited arrival of Aunty Lillian came true. She was to arrive several weeks ago.
You can imagine the excitement her arrival created. Aunty Lillian left Kenya seven years ago and had never returned home once.
She was expected last December,but it didn't happen. Now,after much confusion she was to arrive on an early morning flight on Thursday the 15th November from Kekaha, Kauai, Hawaii.
She didn't overnight stop anywhere.
Pastor Olaf of Waimea UCC told me of a native Kenyan living right in Kekaha before I left for my round the world trip. Lillian, I discovered,had a gift shop/Western Union/travel agency in the old Kekaha Plantation Building. The same building I often went to for our West Kauai Community Coalition meetings. So one day I stopped by and introduced myself. After that we had fregrent visits. Lillian introduced me by email to her sister Mary who invited me to stay with her and her husband and three boys while in Nairobi. Lillian needed to return to Kenya to take a workshop which would upgrade her certification from the government to continue to sell and promote tourism in Kenya.
Lillian brought gifts for Mary and her family and other members of her family and friends who came streaming to the house all day long until wee hours of the night. After all no other member of her family had gone aboard and returned. While still on Kauai Lillian who is very proud to be a Kenyan and who has a rich family background and tradition...her grandfather was chief of the village..up country...which is a valley deep below Mt. Kenya. It is cool and rains often so the valley is very lush. Coffee, banana,potato both sweet and white,pumpkin,casava, arrow root(taro)and even purple Kauai lilikoi grows well there.
So early Friday morning we packed up a rented station wagon with clothes and food(lillian said she sent extra money for food to her parents,but still didn't feel right not taking more food)and two of her sisters one with a baby and David,Mary's 10 year old and Danson,12 year old grandson of Lillian's oldest sister Jane,Kevin,Mary's oldest son (22 yrs.)and I all squeezed in the station wagaon. The roads in Kenya have full of potholes. Lillian who had become used to driving on Kauai had to remember that in Kenya you drive on the opposite side of the road. Not an easy task. The rest of the family and relatives would arrive later on their own.
The drive would take us over two hours. Once we left the main highway it was all dirt roads.
We got suck in the mud several times and had to get help to push the car back on the road.
Midway we slowed down and were bombarded by venders selling bananas,tomatoes,etc. But we had not taken time to eat breakfast so we were happy to get the sweet bananas to relieve our hungry stomachs. In Kenya it is very common to be surrounded by sellers where ever you are.
When we got to the farm many many relatives...from mother's side. and grandmother (around 100 yrs no records to know exactly)..9 sisters..and neighbors were at the house helping to prepare food. First thing Lillian did was to find her mom and dad. The long "lost child"had returned.
Because she was talking"non stop"all throughout the weekend she began losing her voice and had to get something from the doctor.
The next few days were filled with unforgetable experiences which I know that I would never have had except for the hospitality and generousity of Lillian. I feel very blessed by God.
It was like going back in time. I will need to elaborate more for you to get a taste of what I experienced. And Lillian having experienced being a stranger when she first arrived in Canada was super sensitive to possible difficulties I might experience. She was and is an excellent host.
There are some funny human interest stories I would like to relate,but I think I should do in my next blog post.
Until next time Aloha.
You can imagine the excitement her arrival created. Aunty Lillian left Kenya seven years ago and had never returned home once.
She was expected last December,but it didn't happen. Now,after much confusion she was to arrive on an early morning flight on Thursday the 15th November from Kekaha, Kauai, Hawaii.
She didn't overnight stop anywhere.
Pastor Olaf of Waimea UCC told me of a native Kenyan living right in Kekaha before I left for my round the world trip. Lillian, I discovered,had a gift shop/Western Union/travel agency in the old Kekaha Plantation Building. The same building I often went to for our West Kauai Community Coalition meetings. So one day I stopped by and introduced myself. After that we had fregrent visits. Lillian introduced me by email to her sister Mary who invited me to stay with her and her husband and three boys while in Nairobi. Lillian needed to return to Kenya to take a workshop which would upgrade her certification from the government to continue to sell and promote tourism in Kenya.
Lillian brought gifts for Mary and her family and other members of her family and friends who came streaming to the house all day long until wee hours of the night. After all no other member of her family had gone aboard and returned. While still on Kauai Lillian who is very proud to be a Kenyan and who has a rich family background and tradition...her grandfather was chief of the village..up country...which is a valley deep below Mt. Kenya. It is cool and rains often so the valley is very lush. Coffee, banana,potato both sweet and white,pumpkin,casava, arrow root(taro)and even purple Kauai lilikoi grows well there.
So early Friday morning we packed up a rented station wagon with clothes and food(lillian said she sent extra money for food to her parents,but still didn't feel right not taking more food)and two of her sisters one with a baby and David,Mary's 10 year old and Danson,12 year old grandson of Lillian's oldest sister Jane,Kevin,Mary's oldest son (22 yrs.)and I all squeezed in the station wagaon. The roads in Kenya have full of potholes. Lillian who had become used to driving on Kauai had to remember that in Kenya you drive on the opposite side of the road. Not an easy task. The rest of the family and relatives would arrive later on their own.
The drive would take us over two hours. Once we left the main highway it was all dirt roads.
We got suck in the mud several times and had to get help to push the car back on the road.
Midway we slowed down and were bombarded by venders selling bananas,tomatoes,etc. But we had not taken time to eat breakfast so we were happy to get the sweet bananas to relieve our hungry stomachs. In Kenya it is very common to be surrounded by sellers where ever you are.
When we got to the farm many many relatives...from mother's side. and grandmother (around 100 yrs no records to know exactly)..9 sisters..and neighbors were at the house helping to prepare food. First thing Lillian did was to find her mom and dad. The long "lost child"had returned.
Because she was talking"non stop"all throughout the weekend she began losing her voice and had to get something from the doctor.
The next few days were filled with unforgetable experiences which I know that I would never have had except for the hospitality and generousity of Lillian. I feel very blessed by God.
It was like going back in time. I will need to elaborate more for you to get a taste of what I experienced. And Lillian having experienced being a stranger when she first arrived in Canada was super sensitive to possible difficulties I might experience. She was and is an excellent host.
There are some funny human interest stories I would like to relate,but I think I should do in my next blog post.
Until next time Aloha.
Tuesday, November 13, 2007
Looking for help for this deserving father
My main mission is to help teenagers where I can.
Odhis,our driver and guide for the African safari I went on recently, has a daughter 14 years old who wants to be a doctor. Odhis used to be a mechanic and now a tour guide and driver for now about 15 years. He is an exceptional person. He feels financially he would not be able to help her fullfill her dream of becoming a doctor. I offered no promises but said that I would like to help him by reaching out to my friends and looking at possibilities. I have seen miracles. My trip itself is a miracle. I never dreamed that I would be in Africa. It was an impossible dream to me.
Two years ago when Rakhat was staying with me he and I went to a College Fair. I remember that at that fair there was a college in the U.S. that especially wanted students from foreign countries to attend. I think they offered scholarships. The pictures on their brochure included students who might have com from Africa.
I can't remember the name of the college but if anyone knows colleges who especially want to help African students of good scholastic standing and character,but do not have the financial means to come to a U.S. college please send the information to me so I can forward them to Odhis.
I really would like to help Odhis; he is a man of intelligence,compassion,honesty, and integrity. The 14 year old is his oldest child.
So if anyone has any information to share it will be greatly appreciated.
Mahalo Nui Loa,
Joanne
Odhis,our driver and guide for the African safari I went on recently, has a daughter 14 years old who wants to be a doctor. Odhis used to be a mechanic and now a tour guide and driver for now about 15 years. He is an exceptional person. He feels financially he would not be able to help her fullfill her dream of becoming a doctor. I offered no promises but said that I would like to help him by reaching out to my friends and looking at possibilities. I have seen miracles. My trip itself is a miracle. I never dreamed that I would be in Africa. It was an impossible dream to me.
Two years ago when Rakhat was staying with me he and I went to a College Fair. I remember that at that fair there was a college in the U.S. that especially wanted students from foreign countries to attend. I think they offered scholarships. The pictures on their brochure included students who might have com from Africa.
I can't remember the name of the college but if anyone knows colleges who especially want to help African students of good scholastic standing and character,but do not have the financial means to come to a U.S. college please send the information to me so I can forward them to Odhis.
I really would like to help Odhis; he is a man of intelligence,compassion,honesty, and integrity. The 14 year old is his oldest child.
So if anyone has any information to share it will be greatly appreciated.
Mahalo Nui Loa,
Joanne
Monday, November 12, 2007
Lake Nakuru,Samburu,Mt.Kenya/back to Nairobi
After camping it was really nice to spend one night in a hotel in Nakuru.
The next few days we spent time in two very different type of game preserves.
Lake Nakuru National Preserve is green covered with cacacia trees, and a large lake with millions of pink flamingoes,pelicans,sea gulls,stocks,connant and other sea birds. It is completely different from Masaai Mara,which was very dry and dusty. It is smaller and very lush and green. The animals were like in an outdoor Zoo. Even the rhinos and buffalos were calm and relaxed.
Here there were no "wildbreasts" but all the animals we saw before plus a different breed of zebras(narrow stripes and white belly)giraffes with a litle different pattern skin,and a few other animals we didn't see before like the hyena.
On our way to Sanburu National Preserve we crossed the Equator. An interesting demonstration showed us how 20 feet on either side of the equator how when water is poured into a container it twills in the opposite direction.
The boys from Holland who joinned us for this portion of the safari really enjoyed Samburu because our camp was inside the Preserve. These two boys spent 12 weeks in Kenya working for a company for their Master in civil engineering. Olaf,yes Pastor Olaf another Olaf, was blue eyed blond Dutch and E.K. was a Chinese Dutch. His parents moved to Holland from Hong Kong in the 70's so all the children were born in Holland.
We really roughed it,more than the camp at Masaai Mara, but we were camped right next to the river so many animals came by the camp. And the monkeyes and baboons,and all kinds of birds came to steal our food and block us from using the outdoor shower and toilet. We had to make sure we kept our tents tightly close to make sure they didn't get in and steal everything.
I must say living among the animals day and night was more exciting. One day a huge elephant came by. He had only one tusk. The story one of the workers told us as the reason this happened is that he was in a fight with another elephant for a female elephant and the other elephant knocked his tusk completely off.
One of the animals we did not see at the other two preserves was the leopard. Here we saw the lepard twice. Once on a tree and another time lying quietly on the ground only 15 feet away. He was beautiful.
Samburu is dry but no huge praire land. It is covered with small bushes. Here we saw a different kind of Ostrich and many many colorful birds. We also saw monitor lizzard which are about 14 feet long. Here we saw many Digdigs a very small type of gazelle and Ornyx which looks like gazelles but have long sharp horns;look like over two feet long. According to our guide lions have a hard time killing these because they can pierce the lions with them.
After a long drive we dropped Olaf and E.K. who had signed up to do the 3 days hike over Mt. Kenya.
I really enjoyed the company of these two boys. There were two other groups of Europeans at the same camp.
We lost Diana of Germany and Peter of Rwanda after four days when there places were replaced with Olaf and E.K. Kate who was very sick the first half recovered enought to enjoy Nakuru and Samburu,but became very sick on the way back to Nairobi. I was told that Malaria does that; it comes back. Both Tim and Kevin got sick in Nakura. The old lady,me, was the only one who didn't of the original group.
After returning from the safari, I have been staying at the Nairobi Youth Hostel. I have been staying in the dorm where I have meeting many many interesting people. It seems many who stay at the hostel are people who have come to Kenya with a mission to help Kenyans. They stay in remote villages or visit government schools which lack supplies and equipment and raise money for them. I've met groups from Canada and Holland who are doing this. There have been about 12 who have been living in the girls dorm. Many are Kenyans from the country who are staying here and attending colleges in Nairobi.
Especially interesting to me was the story told me by this Masaai girl,22 years,whoes mother ran away from her Masaai husband and seeked refuge at a Catholic Church. The Belgium priest raise her like his own and gave her education so that she was able to find a job as a receptionist and secretary. She remarried but her husband died three years later leaving her with Yamayan..Masaai for Blessing...and two other children all one year apart. Blessing or Yamayan was raised by her Masaai grandmother until she was 12 years old when her mom took her back. Her grandfather now 85years old worked for the colonist and learned to read. He named his four daughters and sons from words he chose from the Atlas....like Geneva,Cleveland,McMillan,etc.
Blessing said he was given an opportunity to continue his education in England but he refused because he did not want to leave his cattle. To a Masaai his cattle is valued very highly. He had four wives which is common even today among the Masaais.
Blessing is very thankful she has experience the old ways and the new modern ways. She is serious about completing her college education in Business Administration. Two of her mothers sisters also left their Masaai husbands and have learned to earn a living on their own. The youngest sister who has four small children has remained with her husband. Blessing said that Massai men beat their wives because their custom says they should. According to her the life of a Masaai woman is very very hard. Each wife must build her own house. It takes about three months. The other wives may not help her. She has to get water from the stream somethimes miles away and cook and take care of the children while the man lays around and plays games.
This post has gotten extra long. I won't have easy access to the internet once I leave the hostel. I return to Mary's place soon. Lillian,Mary's sister from Kehaka, Kauai will be arriving this Thursday. I learned that Lillian has been away from Kenya for 6 years. Her return will be a big affair. Lillian has said she will like to take me "Up Country" to meet her parnets. That should be interesting.
I have also met with Rev. Phyllis Byrd who I was able to connect with throught Carolyn Winston who connected me to Sandra Gourdet of Global Ministries of the Christian Churches,Disciples of Christ. That was another very interesting encounter. Rev. Byrd is from New York. She met her Kenyan husband while he was studying in a New York university. She lives in a beautiful home in Nairobi. I have been able to see the many sides of Kenyans.
The next few days we spent time in two very different type of game preserves.
Lake Nakuru National Preserve is green covered with cacacia trees, and a large lake with millions of pink flamingoes,pelicans,sea gulls,stocks,connant and other sea birds. It is completely different from Masaai Mara,which was very dry and dusty. It is smaller and very lush and green. The animals were like in an outdoor Zoo. Even the rhinos and buffalos were calm and relaxed.
Here there were no "wildbreasts" but all the animals we saw before plus a different breed of zebras(narrow stripes and white belly)giraffes with a litle different pattern skin,and a few other animals we didn't see before like the hyena.
On our way to Sanburu National Preserve we crossed the Equator. An interesting demonstration showed us how 20 feet on either side of the equator how when water is poured into a container it twills in the opposite direction.
The boys from Holland who joinned us for this portion of the safari really enjoyed Samburu because our camp was inside the Preserve. These two boys spent 12 weeks in Kenya working for a company for their Master in civil engineering. Olaf,yes Pastor Olaf another Olaf, was blue eyed blond Dutch and E.K. was a Chinese Dutch. His parents moved to Holland from Hong Kong in the 70's so all the children were born in Holland.
We really roughed it,more than the camp at Masaai Mara, but we were camped right next to the river so many animals came by the camp. And the monkeyes and baboons,and all kinds of birds came to steal our food and block us from using the outdoor shower and toilet. We had to make sure we kept our tents tightly close to make sure they didn't get in and steal everything.
I must say living among the animals day and night was more exciting. One day a huge elephant came by. He had only one tusk. The story one of the workers told us as the reason this happened is that he was in a fight with another elephant for a female elephant and the other elephant knocked his tusk completely off.
One of the animals we did not see at the other two preserves was the leopard. Here we saw the lepard twice. Once on a tree and another time lying quietly on the ground only 15 feet away. He was beautiful.
Samburu is dry but no huge praire land. It is covered with small bushes. Here we saw a different kind of Ostrich and many many colorful birds. We also saw monitor lizzard which are about 14 feet long. Here we saw many Digdigs a very small type of gazelle and Ornyx which looks like gazelles but have long sharp horns;look like over two feet long. According to our guide lions have a hard time killing these because they can pierce the lions with them.
After a long drive we dropped Olaf and E.K. who had signed up to do the 3 days hike over Mt. Kenya.
I really enjoyed the company of these two boys. There were two other groups of Europeans at the same camp.
We lost Diana of Germany and Peter of Rwanda after four days when there places were replaced with Olaf and E.K. Kate who was very sick the first half recovered enought to enjoy Nakuru and Samburu,but became very sick on the way back to Nairobi. I was told that Malaria does that; it comes back. Both Tim and Kevin got sick in Nakura. The old lady,me, was the only one who didn't of the original group.
After returning from the safari, I have been staying at the Nairobi Youth Hostel. I have been staying in the dorm where I have meeting many many interesting people. It seems many who stay at the hostel are people who have come to Kenya with a mission to help Kenyans. They stay in remote villages or visit government schools which lack supplies and equipment and raise money for them. I've met groups from Canada and Holland who are doing this. There have been about 12 who have been living in the girls dorm. Many are Kenyans from the country who are staying here and attending colleges in Nairobi.
Especially interesting to me was the story told me by this Masaai girl,22 years,whoes mother ran away from her Masaai husband and seeked refuge at a Catholic Church. The Belgium priest raise her like his own and gave her education so that she was able to find a job as a receptionist and secretary. She remarried but her husband died three years later leaving her with Yamayan..Masaai for Blessing...and two other children all one year apart. Blessing or Yamayan was raised by her Masaai grandmother until she was 12 years old when her mom took her back. Her grandfather now 85years old worked for the colonist and learned to read. He named his four daughters and sons from words he chose from the Atlas....like Geneva,Cleveland,McMillan,etc.
Blessing said he was given an opportunity to continue his education in England but he refused because he did not want to leave his cattle. To a Masaai his cattle is valued very highly. He had four wives which is common even today among the Masaais.
Blessing is very thankful she has experience the old ways and the new modern ways. She is serious about completing her college education in Business Administration. Two of her mothers sisters also left their Masaai husbands and have learned to earn a living on their own. The youngest sister who has four small children has remained with her husband. Blessing said that Massai men beat their wives because their custom says they should. According to her the life of a Masaai woman is very very hard. Each wife must build her own house. It takes about three months. The other wives may not help her. She has to get water from the stream somethimes miles away and cook and take care of the children while the man lays around and plays games.
This post has gotten extra long. I won't have easy access to the internet once I leave the hostel. I return to Mary's place soon. Lillian,Mary's sister from Kehaka, Kauai will be arriving this Thursday. I learned that Lillian has been away from Kenya for 6 years. Her return will be a big affair. Lillian has said she will like to take me "Up Country" to meet her parnets. That should be interesting.
I have also met with Rev. Phyllis Byrd who I was able to connect with throught Carolyn Winston who connected me to Sandra Gourdet of Global Ministries of the Christian Churches,Disciples of Christ. That was another very interesting encounter. Rev. Byrd is from New York. She met her Kenyan husband while he was studying in a New York university. She lives in a beautiful home in Nairobi. I have been able to see the many sides of Kenyans.
Saturday, November 10, 2007
Third Day visit to a traditional Masaai village
Today a game drive all morning and a visit to a traditional Masaai village in the afternoon.
We didnit see as many animals as we did yesterday,but we were witness to a very very rare event.
According Odhis not often does one get to witness the mating of a male and female lions.
The male lion was a very mature lion about 15years old. They were lying down on the grass.
We were about 15-20 feet away. I was able to get a nice photo of the male lion with his big beautiful mane as he sat up. Odhis said the mating takes about a week. During this time neither one eats any food so at the end the female hunts and brings the food to the male. The male ejaculates 72 times a day. In the beginning the intervals are close like 1 to 2 minutes. The intervals becoming longer. I felt a bit uncomfortable watching. Odhis read my mind. He explained that lions are not like humans. They do everything by instinct and do not mind being watched. We observed for close to 45minutes. The intervals were about 15minutes apart.
Another very special event was coming to only a few feet from a huge Bull elephant.
On the way back we stopped at plush Lodge in the game preserve for a toilet stop. However, we learned that there was a hippo pool in the back so we went to investigate. We found lots more.
Besides some hippos, we saw a huge..looked about 16'"tall grey owl in a tree. It looked just like the kind shown in pictures at Halloween. It had huge eyes. We saw a green tree snake and several baboons and many monkeys. Three of them had little baby monkeys clinging to the underside of their mothers. On the way out of the preserve we saw more impalas like the name given to a car and gazelles,and herds of wild breasts and zebras.
Around 3:30-4pm some of us went on a nature walk which turned out to be a strenuous climb up a mountain and two of us chose to visit a traditional Masaai village. I chose to visit the village. It was the right choice for me. It wouldn't been good for my knees to climb a mountain and I needed some walking. To get to the village we had to walk a little over a mile both directions.
Daniel the camp Masaai was our guide. Daniel did a good job of explaining the whys and hows.
The son of the chief was very tall and handsome. A group of young warriors danced for us. The Masaais are well known for their ability to jump high from a standing position. Daniel joinned them when they danced but would not jump. They should us how they made fire by friction like I've seen the boys scouts do. One young warrior don a head dress of a lion's mane and a story was told about that. A group of Masaai women also danced for us. Later we were told how the houses were made and were allowed to go into a house. A Masaai can have many wives. Each wife must build her own house of sticks,twigs,grass and cow dung. It takes about 3 months to build.
The village has four opennings or gates. Later only one will be accessible. Any visitor must announce his coming with a special call then identify himself. If he is invited to stay the night he must introduce himself to each individual in the village. The fence made around the village is made from torny branches. Also a watchman must stay up all night to watch that no leopards from the mountain come into the village.
Those who climbed the mountain said they didn't come across any leopards, but they encountered more baboons than they could count.
All in all it was a most interesting day.
We didnit see as many animals as we did yesterday,but we were witness to a very very rare event.
According Odhis not often does one get to witness the mating of a male and female lions.
The male lion was a very mature lion about 15years old. They were lying down on the grass.
We were about 15-20 feet away. I was able to get a nice photo of the male lion with his big beautiful mane as he sat up. Odhis said the mating takes about a week. During this time neither one eats any food so at the end the female hunts and brings the food to the male. The male ejaculates 72 times a day. In the beginning the intervals are close like 1 to 2 minutes. The intervals becoming longer. I felt a bit uncomfortable watching. Odhis read my mind. He explained that lions are not like humans. They do everything by instinct and do not mind being watched. We observed for close to 45minutes. The intervals were about 15minutes apart.
Another very special event was coming to only a few feet from a huge Bull elephant.
On the way back we stopped at plush Lodge in the game preserve for a toilet stop. However, we learned that there was a hippo pool in the back so we went to investigate. We found lots more.
Besides some hippos, we saw a huge..looked about 16'"tall grey owl in a tree. It looked just like the kind shown in pictures at Halloween. It had huge eyes. We saw a green tree snake and several baboons and many monkeys. Three of them had little baby monkeys clinging to the underside of their mothers. On the way out of the preserve we saw more impalas like the name given to a car and gazelles,and herds of wild breasts and zebras.
Around 3:30-4pm some of us went on a nature walk which turned out to be a strenuous climb up a mountain and two of us chose to visit a traditional Masaai village. I chose to visit the village. It was the right choice for me. It wouldn't been good for my knees to climb a mountain and I needed some walking. To get to the village we had to walk a little over a mile both directions.
Daniel the camp Masaai was our guide. Daniel did a good job of explaining the whys and hows.
The son of the chief was very tall and handsome. A group of young warriors danced for us. The Masaais are well known for their ability to jump high from a standing position. Daniel joinned them when they danced but would not jump. They should us how they made fire by friction like I've seen the boys scouts do. One young warrior don a head dress of a lion's mane and a story was told about that. A group of Masaai women also danced for us. Later we were told how the houses were made and were allowed to go into a house. A Masaai can have many wives. Each wife must build her own house of sticks,twigs,grass and cow dung. It takes about 3 months to build.
The village has four opennings or gates. Later only one will be accessible. Any visitor must announce his coming with a special call then identify himself. If he is invited to stay the night he must introduce himself to each individual in the village. The fence made around the village is made from torny branches. Also a watchman must stay up all night to watch that no leopards from the mountain come into the village.
Those who climbed the mountain said they didn't come across any leopards, but they encountered more baboons than they could count.
All in all it was a most interesting day.
Thursday, November 8, 2007
Day two at Massaai Mara
We started at 7:30am the second day. Early morning is a good time for a game drive. The wide sky above was light blue with many beautiful puffy white clouds scattered all over. A beautiful morning. A very good time for a game drive. Many many animals are enjoying the fresh morning air and having breakfast.
Today we would be heading toward the Massai Mara River where we will see hippos and crocodiles. Every drive we would see droves of wildbreasts and zebras in the plains. Some asked to see the Big Five. What are the Big Five? Odhis, our driver and guide, said are the beasts early hunters feared because they were ferocious and charged after them. These are the lion,the African elephant,African buffalo,rhino, and leopard. Unlike the Indian elephant, the African elephant cannot be domesticated. Their ears are much largerand grow much larger than the Indian elephant. Also like the African elephant the African buffalo cannot be domesticated either like the Indian water buffalo. However, in the game preserves, they have become so used to seeing many vans with people gawking at them they do not attack but just sit or walk away. With the exception of the rhino and buffalo, they are very shy and will run away when approached. However, when we saw them at Nakuru National Park, they were as calm and placid as the other Big Five.
Diana's wish was to see a leopard. Today we did not see a leopard,but we did see a mother cheetah and her cub lying lazily under a shady bush. They were beautiful together;their coats so bright with the rings around the mother's tail so distinct and beautiful.
We saw elephants,giraffes,and many types of gazelles,entelopes,and three females lions lying on the grass together. Later one decided to hunt a wildbeast. We followed it slowly head for a herd.
However, a zebra got wind of it and alerted the wildbreast and the whole herd took off. This was not to be a successful hunt. There is something wonderful about seeing these animals in their natural envirnment. And I was also very surprised to see that many of shrubs and plants were the same ones that grow on Kauai. On this game preserve everything was dry. But I learned some animals prefer dry grass to fresh grass. The two other game preserves we would visit wer totally different.
We travelled miles before we got to the river,but we were rewarded with many hippos. We had to work harder to find the crocodiles.
We had a picinic lunch under some shady trees before seeing more animals on our way out of the game preserve and back to our camp site.
In the evening we ate with many from other safari groups. It was fun meeting with them and sharing our experiences. I also got a chance to talk story with the Masaais who served the camp.
I asked Daniel and Moses how they got their Christian names. Both were influenced by missionaries. Moses was especially interested in locating Hawaii on a world map which they had tacked on to a 3'x4' bulletin board. I was told that of all the large tribes the Massaais stuck firmly to their life style and traditions. So I was surprised at Moses's answer when I asked him
what was his dream,desire or want for himself. He quickly answered,I want to become a teacher to teach the little children of his village. I asked why? Because if they don't have an education they will be stuck taking care of the herd. Those with education can get better jobs with the government and hotels and earn more money. I later learned from Daniel that the Masaai council made up of the elders at first only allowed children who were poor at watching the herd to go to school. Now that they have seen what has happened to those "educated"children they are raising money to build a new school.
Today we would be heading toward the Massai Mara River where we will see hippos and crocodiles. Every drive we would see droves of wildbreasts and zebras in the plains. Some asked to see the Big Five. What are the Big Five? Odhis, our driver and guide, said are the beasts early hunters feared because they were ferocious and charged after them. These are the lion,the African elephant,African buffalo,rhino, and leopard. Unlike the Indian elephant, the African elephant cannot be domesticated. Their ears are much largerand grow much larger than the Indian elephant. Also like the African elephant the African buffalo cannot be domesticated either like the Indian water buffalo. However, in the game preserves, they have become so used to seeing many vans with people gawking at them they do not attack but just sit or walk away. With the exception of the rhino and buffalo, they are very shy and will run away when approached. However, when we saw them at Nakuru National Park, they were as calm and placid as the other Big Five.
Diana's wish was to see a leopard. Today we did not see a leopard,but we did see a mother cheetah and her cub lying lazily under a shady bush. They were beautiful together;their coats so bright with the rings around the mother's tail so distinct and beautiful.
We saw elephants,giraffes,and many types of gazelles,entelopes,and three females lions lying on the grass together. Later one decided to hunt a wildbeast. We followed it slowly head for a herd.
However, a zebra got wind of it and alerted the wildbreast and the whole herd took off. This was not to be a successful hunt. There is something wonderful about seeing these animals in their natural envirnment. And I was also very surprised to see that many of shrubs and plants were the same ones that grow on Kauai. On this game preserve everything was dry. But I learned some animals prefer dry grass to fresh grass. The two other game preserves we would visit wer totally different.
We travelled miles before we got to the river,but we were rewarded with many hippos. We had to work harder to find the crocodiles.
We had a picinic lunch under some shady trees before seeing more animals on our way out of the game preserve and back to our camp site.
In the evening we ate with many from other safari groups. It was fun meeting with them and sharing our experiences. I also got a chance to talk story with the Masaais who served the camp.
I asked Daniel and Moses how they got their Christian names. Both were influenced by missionaries. Moses was especially interested in locating Hawaii on a world map which they had tacked on to a 3'x4' bulletin board. I was told that of all the large tribes the Massaais stuck firmly to their life style and traditions. So I was surprised at Moses's answer when I asked him
what was his dream,desire or want for himself. He quickly answered,I want to become a teacher to teach the little children of his village. I asked why? Because if they don't have an education they will be stuck taking care of the herd. Those with education can get better jobs with the government and hotels and earn more money. I later learned from Daniel that the Masaai council made up of the elders at first only allowed children who were poor at watching the herd to go to school. Now that they have seen what has happened to those "educated"children they are raising money to build a new school.
Wednesday, November 7, 2007
Seven Day Camping Safari to Three Preserves.
Seeing the wild animals in the wild is a unique experience. But having a really good guide/driver and enthusiastic "game drive" companions was just as important. And I had all of them.
Another benefit of going on a camping safari with African Home Adventure Ltd. which is the safari sponsored by Kenya Youth Hostel Association is they follow the youth hostel philosophy which is providing people experiences with nature at a low reasonable cost. I signed up with this safari because I like the youth hostel philosophy. But several in our group said that they had done extensive research (I learned that there are many many groups who offer safari trips)and said that this offered the best.
The game preserves are huge and many miles apart so some days we are traveling for 8-9 hours. The highways in many parts are terrible,(lots of repair work)but I was able to see a great deal of the countryside that I would never had had the chance to see.
Tuesday Oct. 30th we started at 7:30am. After picking up supplies,we were on the road all morning. In our van were was a young man of 28years from Rwanda named Peter. He later shared his life story which was fasinating.Kathy a 22 year girl from Strutgard(spl)she had spent 4 weeks volunteering in the northern part of Kenya helping to count elephants with other volunteers from Canada and England. We had a couple from Australia who came to Kenya to participate in a major run. Tim and Kate were from Melbourne. Tim is director of An Athletic Association. Kate participated in the run but did not do well. She acquired Malaria and stomach infection. Actually she was so sick she had to remain in the tent the first 3-4 days. Kevin (22years), my hosts oldest son,myself and Odhis,driver and guide, made up our team. Later both Kevin and Tim would be affected with stomach disorder. This old lady was the only one who didn't go down. I better keep my fingers crossed.
Our first exciting event was stopping at the view point of theGreat Rift Valley. I had never heard of the Rift Valley. The more I learned about it the more excited I got. Looking at this vast valley which stretches 9600 Km from Israel all the way to Mozambique running through Jordon the Red Sea(where I went snorkling)Egypt,Etiopia, Sudan and Somolia,Kenya,andTanzania. The valley looked so arid. Then I discovered we were driving in the bottom of this valley....we were traveling in the Great Rift valley to get to our camp and Game Preserve. We travelled for miles and miles in dusty arid land. We saw sheep and goats and herdmen and I wondered how anyone could live in this desolute land. The scenery does change as we continue to speed along. Some places stretches in miles and miles of dry grass land. About 4:00pm we arrive at out campsite. There were quite a few other vans there already.
The campsite is owned by Kenya Youth Hostel but leased and operated by the Masaai Community. The Massai tribe own the all the land around this area. Other safari companies who have no camp site also use this campsite. Besides other campers there was a large (28)group of Germans. At dinner I met others from Ireland and Sweden and Holland.
The first shock was seeing these tall Masaai men dressed in red with hanging ear lobes and beads coming to help us with our baggage and leading up to our tents. I was a bit frightened by them at first but soon holding conversations with them I began seeing them as people.
After 30minutes to get settled we jumped into our van for our first "game drive" The top of the van was lifted so we could stand up and look outside for a clearer view. No one is allowed to get out of the van once we are in the game preserve.
This day I saw on the way to the preserve two very shaggy hair baboons on the road. In the preserve thousands of "wild beasts" that is what they are called because they have the features of so many beasts...horns like the buffalo,face like a cricket,tail like a horse, and legs like the hyena. That is what the guide said.
Also a tall giraffe,two ostriches...a dark black male and a gray female. They are big birds.
Antelopes and Thompson gazelles,they are very small. At the Samburu game preserve which we went later we saw the Digdigs which were even smaller gazalles.
We came across three female lions laying in the grass. One began to go starking so we just watched. She slowly creeped toward a herd of "wildbreasts" However, the zebras alerted them and they all began to run away. The lioness slowly retreated back to where the other two lioness were. One of those unsuccessful hunts. The game preserve stretch miles and miles. Some parts remind me of Kokee. There are lentanas,haole koa,kiawe trees,and many familiar shrubs,they are a bit dried up. However, we don't the vast grasslands that seem to stretch for miles. "Home on the Range" kept planying in my ears. Leaving the preserve we were blessed with a beautiful sunset.
To be continued later.
Another benefit of going on a camping safari with African Home Adventure Ltd. which is the safari sponsored by Kenya Youth Hostel Association is they follow the youth hostel philosophy which is providing people experiences with nature at a low reasonable cost. I signed up with this safari because I like the youth hostel philosophy. But several in our group said that they had done extensive research (I learned that there are many many groups who offer safari trips)and said that this offered the best.
The game preserves are huge and many miles apart so some days we are traveling for 8-9 hours. The highways in many parts are terrible,(lots of repair work)but I was able to see a great deal of the countryside that I would never had had the chance to see.
Tuesday Oct. 30th we started at 7:30am. After picking up supplies,we were on the road all morning. In our van were was a young man of 28years from Rwanda named Peter. He later shared his life story which was fasinating.Kathy a 22 year girl from Strutgard(spl)she had spent 4 weeks volunteering in the northern part of Kenya helping to count elephants with other volunteers from Canada and England. We had a couple from Australia who came to Kenya to participate in a major run. Tim and Kate were from Melbourne. Tim is director of An Athletic Association. Kate participated in the run but did not do well. She acquired Malaria and stomach infection. Actually she was so sick she had to remain in the tent the first 3-4 days. Kevin (22years), my hosts oldest son,myself and Odhis,driver and guide, made up our team. Later both Kevin and Tim would be affected with stomach disorder. This old lady was the only one who didn't go down. I better keep my fingers crossed.
Our first exciting event was stopping at the view point of theGreat Rift Valley. I had never heard of the Rift Valley. The more I learned about it the more excited I got. Looking at this vast valley which stretches 9600 Km from Israel all the way to Mozambique running through Jordon the Red Sea(where I went snorkling)Egypt,Etiopia, Sudan and Somolia,Kenya,andTanzania. The valley looked so arid. Then I discovered we were driving in the bottom of this valley....we were traveling in the Great Rift valley to get to our camp and Game Preserve. We travelled for miles and miles in dusty arid land. We saw sheep and goats and herdmen and I wondered how anyone could live in this desolute land. The scenery does change as we continue to speed along. Some places stretches in miles and miles of dry grass land. About 4:00pm we arrive at out campsite. There were quite a few other vans there already.
The campsite is owned by Kenya Youth Hostel but leased and operated by the Masaai Community. The Massai tribe own the all the land around this area. Other safari companies who have no camp site also use this campsite. Besides other campers there was a large (28)group of Germans. At dinner I met others from Ireland and Sweden and Holland.
The first shock was seeing these tall Masaai men dressed in red with hanging ear lobes and beads coming to help us with our baggage and leading up to our tents. I was a bit frightened by them at first but soon holding conversations with them I began seeing them as people.
After 30minutes to get settled we jumped into our van for our first "game drive" The top of the van was lifted so we could stand up and look outside for a clearer view. No one is allowed to get out of the van once we are in the game preserve.
This day I saw on the way to the preserve two very shaggy hair baboons on the road. In the preserve thousands of "wild beasts" that is what they are called because they have the features of so many beasts...horns like the buffalo,face like a cricket,tail like a horse, and legs like the hyena. That is what the guide said.
Also a tall giraffe,two ostriches...a dark black male and a gray female. They are big birds.
Antelopes and Thompson gazelles,they are very small. At the Samburu game preserve which we went later we saw the Digdigs which were even smaller gazalles.
We came across three female lions laying in the grass. One began to go starking so we just watched. She slowly creeped toward a herd of "wildbreasts" However, the zebras alerted them and they all began to run away. The lioness slowly retreated back to where the other two lioness were. One of those unsuccessful hunts. The game preserve stretch miles and miles. Some parts remind me of Kokee. There are lentanas,haole koa,kiawe trees,and many familiar shrubs,they are a bit dried up. However, we don't the vast grasslands that seem to stretch for miles. "Home on the Range" kept planying in my ears. Leaving the preserve we were blessed with a beautiful sunset.
To be continued later.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)